Skin soothing & inflamm-aging control

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Another important goal of this overnight mask is the reduction of micro-inflammation associated with inflammaging, the soothing of irritated skin, and barrier stabilization.

Not all signs of skin aging are visible. Many begin at the molecular level. Particularly in sensitive or stressed skin, chronic inflammatory processes play a significant role in the aging process, known as inflammaging. These low-grade inflammations can disrupt the skin barrier, lead to the degradation of structural proteins, and impair the skin's regenerative capacity. The formulation aims to modulate inflammatory signaling pathways at an early stage, counteract oxidative stress, and support the skin's natural self-healing and protective processes.

Bisabolol

Bisabolol is an anti-inflammatory sesquiterpene alcohol derived from chamomile with excellent skin tolerance. Bisabolol inhibits pro-inflammatory mediators (e.g., IL-1β, PGE2), soothes irritation, and reduces UV-induced redness. Bisabolol also has antimicrobial properties against skin-irritating germs.

Operating principle:

Blocking of inflammatory signaling pathways, protection against reactive oxygen species (ROS), and promotion of tolerance in sensitive skin.

Clinical result:

Clinical result: Noticeable calming, reduction of redness and feelings of tension.

Allantoin

Allantoin is a well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing active ingredient with proven antimutagenic, regenerative, and skin-soothing effects. In cell models, it significantly reduced oxidatively induced mutations (e.g., by hydrogen peroxide). Clinically, allantoin has demonstrated a reduction in the stratum corneum renewal cycle (from 23 to 19 days), a reduction in skin redness, and a normalization of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) following irritation. Skin penetration is 5–20% (at a 1% concentration, this occurs after 3–6 hours). Therefore, allantoin is ideally suited for the care of irritated, sensitive, or skin in need of regeneration.

Operating principle:

Support of epidermal regeneration through accelerated stratum corneum renewal, reduction of oxidatively induced cell damage and stabilization of the skin barrier under irritant stress.

Clinical result:

Soothed skin, improved barrier function and a smoother-looking complexion.

Mel[o]stem™

Mel[o]stem™ is an intelligent active ingredient derived from the plant cell culture of the North American scarlet beebalm (Monarda didyma), also known as scarlet beebalm, Oswego tea, or red bergamot. Mel[o]stem™ is effective against both types of pigmentary changes: dark hyperpigmentation and white depigmentation (e.g., idiopathic hypomelanotic white spots). Its unique feature lies in maintaining the equilibrium of melanocytes, the cells responsible for skin pigment production. Mel[o]stem™ protects the so-called "melanocytic niche" (microstructural cell environment) by reducing oxidative stress, inhibiting pro-inflammatory enzymes such as elastase and collagenase, and promoting the extracellular matrix with hyaluronic acid and collagen I. Simultaneously, the active ingredient modulates melanin production and prevents melanocyte senescence under UV stress. In clinical studies, after eight weeks of using Mel[o]stem™ at the same concentration as in O4 Skin Renewal Overnight Mask, a significant lightening of dark spots (-19%) and a marked reduction in white lesions (volume -93%, depth -47%) were observed. Furthermore, skin elasticity (up to +77%) and flexibility improved significantly, particularly in areas with age-related vitiligo.

Structural effects of Mel[o]stem™

The effect is based on a complex polyphenol profile with rosmarinic acid (anti-inflammatory) and prunin, the 7-O-glucoside of the flavonoid naringenin (antioxidant). Studies have shown that naringenin exhibits a broad spectrum of biological activities, including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, vascular-protective, and cell-regulatory effects, which have been proven to contribute to promoting human health. Flavonoids are among the few classes of substances for which initial clinical evidence of "reverse aging" effects exists in larger studies. With this pigment-regulating active ingredient, 04 Skin Renewal Overnight Mask focuses on cellular balance and protection against microstructural deterioration.

Conclusion:

This combination of active ingredients aims to balance skin pigmentation, counteracts chronic low-grade inflammation (inflammaging) and thus addresses a key driver of skin aging.