High-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid (HA) forms a light, moisture-binding film on the surface. Low-molecular-weight HA (< 50 kDa) measurably improves elasticity by binding water in deeper epidermal layers. Oligohyaluronic acid (< 5 kDa) interacts with CD44 and supports hyaluronic acid homeostasis. The literature describes a size effect of hyaluronic acid: High-molecular-weight HA promotes a less inflammatory environment, while very small fragments can act as stress signals and bind water. In cosmetics, low-molecular-weight and oligomolecular forms are primarily used for hydration. Our triple-action HA approach combines high-molecular-weight forms for surface comfort with low-molecular-weight forms for sustained water retention in deeper layers. The result is a smoother-looking skin surface and noticeably more suppleness in the deeper layers.
Bio-Placenta is a synthetic, human- and animal-free peptide complex. The biomimetic short peptides are functionally aligned with placental signaling patterns without containing any biological extracts. They support collagen-related building processes and cellular renewal mechanisms. The goal is a visibly improved skin texture and a more even complexion.
Centella asiatica is Indian pennywort, also known as tiger grass. Legend has it that injured tigers would roll in it, which is why this tropical plant is considered a symbol of soothing skin. Indian pennywort is used in traditional Chinese medicine and Ayurvedic medicine. In our serum, we utilize the plant's active ingredients: highly purified triterpenes from Centella asiatica, madecassic acid, asiaticoside, and asiatic acid.
The triterpenes modulate pro-inflammatory signaling pathways and dampen key messenger substances of irritation. Simultaneously, they support the organization of the extracellular matrix via collagen-related pathways and contribute to barrier stabilization. Antioxidant properties help neutralize reactive oxygen species.
Role in the RU21 formulation concept:
In the RU21 context, the Centella complex complements both PDRN and peptide technologies. While PDRN sends regenerative signals and peptides address structural building, Centella provides a calming counterbalance and supports skin tolerance.
Dragon's Blood is the deep red resin of Croton lechleri. This tree grows in the Amazon rainforest, and its red sap, known as "Sangre de Drago," is used in traditional medicine for wound healing. Chemically, it is dominated by a high fraction of condensed polyphenols, proanthocyanidins complemented by catechins, and the alkaloid taspine. This composition explains the resin's pronounced antioxidant potential. In scientific literature, taspine is described as the resin's key active ingredient. These findings are based on pharmacological studies. For our serum, we focus on the extract's cosmetically relevant benefits: antioxidant protection, skin soothing, and a comfortable finish.
The polyphenols neutralize reactive oxygen species and modulate stimulus-related messenger substances. In vitro, Croton lechleri extracts exhibit antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. The drying latex behavior of the resin is relevant for formulation practice. Upon drying, a very thin, flexible layer forms that acts as a gentle protective layer on the skin, improving skin comfort.
Biotechnological ferments for microbiome starch
The skin, too, is an ecosystem. Billions of beneficial microorganisms live on it, helping to stabilize the skin barrier and contributing to our overall well-being. Biotechnological ferments provide this ecosystem with postbiotic metabolites. These are active ingredients produced during fermentation without live microbes, specifically low-molecular-weight peptides, organic acids, sugar derivatives, and exopolysaccharides that function without live microbes yet still support the skin's microclimate regulation. Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract is produced by fermenting soybeans with Bacillus cultures. This process generates peptide fragments, amino acids, and carbohydrate building blocks that act as natural moisturizing factors, supporting the moisture balance in the stratum corneum. Lactobacillus Ferment provides lactic acid as well as typical fermentation peptide and polysaccharide patterns. These components help maintain the slightly acidic skin environment. This promotes barrier-relevant enzymes and supports a balanced skin microbiome.
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First, microbiome strength. A balanced spectrum of postbiotic metabolites supports the diversity of beneficial skin inhabitants and creates conditions in which the skin is less prone to irritation.
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Secondly, barrier comfort. Enzymes promote a favorable pH environment and water retention in the stratum corneum. The result is a smoother skin feel and a more stable surface structure.
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Thirdly, skin calming. In vitro evidence describes a modulation of stimulus-associated signals. In cosmetic practice, this is perceived as a more pleasant reaction of the skin to environmental stress.
