Skin soothing & inflammaging control

Back

Acute and chronic micro-inflammations (inflammatory processes) are considered a driving factor in many skin problems, from blemishes and redness to premature skin aging, also known as "inflammaging." The O5 Clear Skin Serum combines skin-soothing, sebum-regulating, and cell-stabilizing ingredients for visibly balanced and more resilient skin.

Niacinamide

Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is a versatile skin active ingredient with proven efficacy. Niacinamide regulates sebum production and strengthens the skin barrier. In an international Delphi consensus study from 2025, dermatologists surveyed specifically recommended niacinamide for cosmetic use in treating redness (72.6%) and dark spots (79%). This assessment was based on high-quality clinical evidence (level 1b/2b). Furthermore, it stimulates ceramide production, which is essential for a healthy skin barrier.

Operating principle:

Inhibition of inflammatory cytokines,
Pigment regulation, barrier stabilization.

Clinical result:

Even complexion with fewer dark spots, reduced redness, strengthened skin.

Evermat™

Enantia Chlorantha Bark Extract & Oleanolic Acid (Evermat™), a plant-based active complex derived from West African Enantia bark and oleanolic acid, specifically regulates sebum production, refines pores, and visibly mattifies the skin. In cosmetic formulations, it has astringent (tightening), sebum-reducing, and antibacterial properties.

Its effect is based on protoberberines, natural plant compounds with antimicrobial and sebum-regulating properties that reduce the activity of sebaceous gland cells (sebocytes). Additionally, the complex inhibits the enzyme 5-α-reductase, which plays a key role in the conversion of testosterone to dihydrotestosterone (DHT), a trigger for excess sebum production.

The result is visibly mattified, refined-pored skin with less shine, which is also protected against impurities. Evermat™ gently balances oily or blemish-prone skin without drying it out.

Operating principle:

Sebum regulation through enzyme inhibition, antibacterial effect.

Clinical result:

Mattified complexion, refined pores.

Alzelaic acid

Azelaic acid is a multifunctional active ingredient that occurs naturally in grains. Its mechanism of action is well-documented: it has antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and keratolytic properties (dissolving dead skin cells) and simultaneously regulates pigmentation in the skin. Therefore, it not only helps improve blemishes but also reduces redness, clogged pores, and uneven skin tone. Clinical studies have shown since the 1970s that it can improve the appearance of pigmentation disorders and skin irritations.

Another advantage: Azelaic acid helps the skin to protect itself against oxidative stress, which can be triggered by environmental factors such as UV radiation or air pollution – an aspect that is also associated with premature skin aging.

Azelaic acid inhibits the activity of 5-alpha reductase, an enzyme that converts testosterone into dihydrotestosterone (DHT) in both women and men. DHT stimulates the sebaceous glands and can lead to oily, blemished skin. By inhibiting this enzyme, azelaic acid can regulate sebum production, which is particularly relevant for hormonally related blemishes.

Current state of research on azelaic acid

In a 2025 international expert consensus report by dermatologists, azelaic acid was recommended by 88.7% of respondents as an active ingredient for the treatment of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) and dark spots, and by 87.1% for blemishes. This Delphi study of 62 dermatologists from 43 dermatological centers worldwide found that the recommendations for azelaic acid are predominantly based on level 1b and 2b scientific evidence, meaning high-quality clinical studies. Azelaic acid is considered very well tolerated. It is not photosensitive and is suitable for long-term use, even in combination with other active skincare ingredients such as niacinamide. Therefore, it fits perfectly into a modern skincare routine for sensitive skin prone to redness or blemishes.

Operating principle:

Inhibition of 5-α-reductase, antimicrobial, antioxidant (ROS neutralization).

Clinical result:

Fewer impurities, refined
Improved skin appearance, reduced redness.

Silybum Marianum Fruit Extract (Milk Thistle)

Silybum Marianum Fruit Extract (Milk Thistle) is a plant extract rich in silymarin, a highly effective complex of polyphenols, particularly flavonolignans such as silybin A and B, isosilybin, silydianin, and silychristin. These substances are among the most powerful known plant antioxidants. They protect the skin from free radicals (unstable molecules that can damage cell structures), inhibit oxidative chain reactions, and protect the lipid structures in cell membranes from degradation. Silymarin also has an anti-inflammatory effect by specifically reducing pro-inflammatory signaling pathways (e.g., NF-κB) and cytokines such as IL-6 and TNF-α. This is particularly beneficial for sensitive, reddened, or environmentally stressed skin and plays a supportive role in combating so-called inflammaging, i.e., inflammation-related skin aging.

A photoprotective effect was also observed: Silymarin reduces UVB-induced DNA damage and protects against the effects of sun stress, for example by reducing free radicals after UV exposure.

An interesting additional benefit is the anti-glycation effect: Silymarin can reduce the harmful "glycation process" of collagen and elastin fibers, which benefits the skin structure and maintains elasticity in the long term.

Simply put: Milk thistle extract protects the skin from oxidative stress, soothes inflammatory skin conditions, counteracts the loss of elasticity and contributes to a clearer complexion, even in sensitive or impure skin.

Operating principle:

Protection against free radicals (unstable molecules that can damage cell structures), membrane stabilization.

Clinical result:

Reduced irritation, stabilized skin environment.

Carnosine

Carnosine is a naturally occurring dipeptide found in higher concentrations in muscles and the brain, with a pronounced anti-glycation effect. In the skin, it protects the collagen structure from glycation, thus counteracting premature skin aging.

Mechanism of action: Anti-glycation and antioxidant cell protection

Clinical result: Firmer skin, improved texture

Salicylic acid (BHA, beta-hydroxy acid)

Salicylic acid (BHA, beta-hydroxy acid) is a fat-soluble beta-hydroxy acid that has been used in cosmetic formulations for decades as a keratolytic agent: it dissolves dead skin cells and unclogs pores. This deep pore cleansing makes it particularly suitable for blemished, oily, or impurity-prone skin. Furthermore, salicylic acid possesses antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties that help reduce active blemishes and improve the complexion in the long term. Current scientific reviews, including a comprehensive meta-analysis of 80 evaluated clinical studies, also confirm its effectiveness in treating pigmentation irregularities and UV-induced skin tone imbalances.

In cosmetic concentrations, salicylic acid is considered to be well tolerated, even with regular use.

Operating principle:

Deep pore cleansing through keratolysis (dissolving effect on dead skin cells), antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, comedolytic (works against blackheads).

Clinical result:

Visibly clearer skin, less clogged pores, improved skin texture.

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder (Aloe Vera)

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder (Aloe Vera) is a plant-based ingredient containing, among other things, polysaccharides such as acemannan, amino acids, minerals, and vitamins. These components are described in scientific literature in connection with soothing and moisturizing properties.

Studies suggest that components of aloe vera can modulate the expression of certain pro-inflammatory cytokines such as IL-1 and TNF-α in vitro. Therefore, the extract is frequently used in cosmetic formulations, particularly in products designed for sensitive or redness-prone skin.

Furthermore, according to literature sources, aloe vera has a moisture-binding capacity. In combination with other ingredients, it can contribute to maintaining the skin's physiological balance, especially for skin types with increased reactivity or a tendency towards irritation.